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24 August, Maçka
Vazelon Pansiyon 100TL

Two mountain streams meet in Maçka: one brown, the other dark blue. As with the confluence of the Blue and White Niles, they run side by side, though less dramatically and for 50m or so only before mingling. Having found that the first dolmuş to Sumela Monastery was only due in from Trabzon at 10:30, we decided to spend an extra night in town and hitch a ride back up to the Zigana tunnel and spend a little more time admiring the scenery we had caught only brief glimpses of during our cloudy descent yesterday. We made this decision over Nescafe at a sidewalk çay evi. Nearby were hazelnuts spread on a blue tarpaulin. An adolescent cat entertained us with his antics. He would pretend the nuts were not there, then catch sight of a stray nut and leap sideways as if escaping from a deadly enemy. He would then grab at the nut, juggling it between his front paws. For variety, he would push his paws under the tarpaulin and watch the nuts roll this way and that. Later in the day we saw him curled asleep in a sidewalk potplant. In the afternoon we took the last dolmuş 17km into the hills to walk the steep 1200m to the Sumela Monastery. The Greek Orthodox monastery was founded in 386AD in Byzantine times and abandoned in 1923 after the creation of the Turkish Republic. It’s a beauty.

Between Zigana Pass and Maçka
Between Zigana Pass and Maçka
Between Zigana Pass and Maçka
Between Zigana Pass and Maçka
Between Zigana Pass and Maçka
Between Zigana Pass and Maçka
Sumela Monastery
Sumela Monastery
Sumela Monastery
Sumela Monastery
Sumela Monastery
Sumela Monastery
Sumela Monastery
Sumela Monastery
Sumela Monastery
Sumela Monastery
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