2006 Egypt

23 December 2006, Saturday; camping, outside Bahariyya Oasis

Mohammed and Ali Baba collected us at 09h40 from the Desert Rose and dropped us at 4x4Siwa. We left our luggage and went in search of AAA batteries for my LED light – which we found at a camera studio – and some additional supplies for the road.

Ahmed has to apply for permits for us to travel to Bahariyya – a process that could not be started yesterday, a Friday – and could only be started at around noon today. A process that could take two hours.

So we had to be ready to go at any time between noon and two on a 420km, 6-8 hour journey.

We bought biscuits and fruit and water and retired to East West Restaurant for a substantial brunch.

And as it happened we were still busy with this just after 12h00 when we were told our permits were ready and we could go. We hit the road at 12h40 in our Toyota LandCruiser – fur on the dashboard – with our Bedouin driver Hassan and his cousin, our cook, Lotvie.

And so into the desert.

What a day!

The road varied from good to bad, from wide to narrow, from smooth to rough, from dirt to bitumen. Despite two off-road excursions into the dunes to test the vehicle’s capabilities (and our nerves); despite 6-7 army posts at which our permits were checked (and at one some food demanded which clearly upset Lotvie); despite one tyre change asked for at our last army stop where the officer had noticed it was soft and where the two army guys resident there assisted Hassan and Lotvie – we were in Bahariyya by 18h40 – having seen only one other vehicle the entire afternoon.

The (omni)presence of the army is somewhat disturbing, but not unnerving. The men were friendly, affectionate, even (men here often greet each other with broad grins and outflung arms, with hugs and 2-3 kisses; warm, affectionate, demonstrative) and helpful – and on the whole quick with the papers. Not authoritarian or threatening. The only sour note being the food incident.

Hassan told us that they used to spend two nights en route to Bahariyya, but that now permission for more than one night outside the oasis has to be obtained, not in Siwa, but in Cairo. He says this is painfully slow. And expensive.

Hassan is somewhat cynical about the Egyptian government, saying, for example, that on longer trips into the desert proper (ie off-road), you have to pay insurance for a rescue plane – which will never come.

The desert itself is amazing. More coloured and textured and varied than I thought it would be. This is not a sand dune area – though we did see some pretty dunes with knife-edge ridges. Sometimes flat, sometimes undulating, sometimes fading away into the distance. Amazing flat-topped hills and cliff faces glowing in the sun dropping in the sky behind us. Black and white, cream and peach, tan and brown. Sometimes dull; often lovely; “net mooi niks nie”. We passed two pools of water with birds thereon, but little vegetation and no inhabitation.

As we neared Bahariyya and came within reach of cell connectivity, both Hassan and Lotvie got out their cells and began a series of conversations! We dropped the soft tyre off in Bahariyya – after checking in with the police – bought some Coke (and a beer for Charl who has been without for two nights in “dry” Siwa), saw trucks loaded with lolling camels, their headgear tied to the side of the truck – and headed out into the night.

We camped in an icy wind just on the outskirts of the oasis and just off the road. Two small tents – in ours inadequate mattresses (like over-processed white bread, all air until you squash it – smoke and mirrors) and not enough blankets and no pillows. So not a good night’s sleep. A carpet on the sandy ground beside the car and a windbreak, brightly coloured and patterned.

Lotvie built a fire – using palm and olive wood – and in the dark managed to put together a delicious meal of barbecued chicken, rice, veg and salad. Followed by tiny glasses of strong sweet tea. Super.