2006 Egypt

10 January 2007, Wednesday; Pension Roma, Cairo, LE82 (incl)

My feet are SORE! Particularly my left foot. I obviously did something “wrong” en route Mt Sinai’s peak – or coming down those appalling “stairs”. Only hope it is nothing serious. And there is nothing I can do about it until I get home, so I will just have to take it easy. Not easy with so much to do still.

We slept late and breakfasted as usual on rolls and processed cheese and jam – to which Charl added leftover fish from last night – and took the Metro (two, actually) to Mar Girgi’s station and the Coptic compound there.

The Metro was considerably more crowded than any we have experienced to date, but both Charl and I were offered a seat and our journey across town was quickly and easily accomplished.

We stepped off the Metro at 11h00 – a late start to our day – and into a different city!

We went first to the Coptic Museum – housed in a stunning, newly-renovated building. With carved wooden ceilings and mashrabiyyas (carved wooden screens on the windows) in the Ottoman style. With Christian art artfully displayed on two floors.

Stone carved in high-relief – pillars, friezes, niches, etc. Painted niches, etc. Textiles, woven and embroidered, for which the Copts are known. Writing instruments and papyrus scrolls. Christian psalms, etc, in Arabic in beautifully written and illustrated books. The oldest book (perhaps) in the world. Of parchment (introduced by the Romans to replace papyrus), leather (spine), wood (covers) and bone (ankh-shaped bookmark). Icons (images) of large-eyed Christs and gentle Marys and bearded Saints killing dragons and demons. Our favourite was one of St Barbara – beheaded by her father for trying to convert him. Silverwork, etc.

The entrance to the museum is sited between two Roman towers dating from 98 and built by Emperor Trajan as part of his riverfront fortifications.

Thence to the Hanging (Suspended) Church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary and built on top of the water gate of Roman Babylon. With its eclectic mix of icons and mosaics and ivory-inlaid wooden screens and cheerful, cheap Xmas decorations – the Copts celebrated their Christmas last Sunday.

We took a lunch break in a tiny courtyard squeezed between the Metro and the road. Where we met a cat that loves “French” (processed) cheese.

Then back to tackle the rest of the “compound”. To the convent of St George and the church of St Mary to the left of the entrance; to the Holy Crypt at the church of St Sergius and the church of St Barbara and the Ben Ezra Synagogue on the right. And finally to the Greek Orthodox Cemetery. Where people are buried in fairly large crypts – and some people seem to be living.

A quick Coke break at our lunch stop restaurant. Where a young couple were upset by their bill and turned to each other and said “we must learn to negotiate up front” – a sentiment often echoed by Charl and I. And then on to the Souq al-Fustat. Another unfortunate example of failed government planning. Nicely laid-out with small shops selling varied and high-quality crafts – to no-one. No-one knows about the place and the tour companies won’t bring their tour groups because al-Fustat apparently does not offer a big enough commission. Fell in love with a LE7000 pottery pot. Ah, well.

Instead of coming straight home we took the Metro to Sadat near the Egyptian Museum. There to have exorbitant drinks on the terrace of the Semiramis Intercontinental: beer @ LE26; half a glass of wine @ LE30! We decided to treat ourselves (we are within budget – LE500 per day – despite our desert safari and hot air balloon ride) to dinner at the hotel. In the Sabaya restaurant there which offers Lebanese fare. And ordered – and ate with tremendous pleasure – mezes comprising: Hummus with lamb pieces, eggplant salad, chicken livers, sausages with lemon, fried halloumi (that squeaked as we bit into it), feta pastries and hot fresh bread. Yum!

Before entering the pink hotel we were accosted by a man who said the US had bombed Sudan / Ethiopia and killed 100,000. And that we wouldn’t find this information in any newspaper as it was being suppressed. Rumours and irrational passion – a bad combination.

Over tea in the TeeVee room later, we met a South African woman who came to Egypt on holiday, has been here a year, has converted to Islam, and is hoping to establish a business between the two countries. She has also arranged for her youngest child to come to Egypt to study Middle Eastern politics at Cairo Uni.

She is definitely having a love affair with Egypt and Islam and it is not only the young that are blind. Blind to the realities of poverty and crime and limited freedoms. She says no-one here gets angry or commits crime or is unhappy. Does not believe Muslims were involved in 911 – a real conspiracy theorist. Naïve in the extreme. She is more “royal than the king” – according to a French economist we spoke to later.

An interesting chat, but … Ag, shame!

Aside: Egyptian TV shows are very strange – “a parody”, says Charl. Men and women in dated dress, with bouffant hairstyles and hysterical, high-pitched interactions and sexual hints and immaturity. Embarrassing.