2001 Biking South Africa

Day 13, Thursday, June 28
Clarens (Golden Gate) to Ficksburg
87.8km @ 14kph

The temperature plummeted to -8 last night and we awoke to a frosty world. Despite icy digits and cold-stung flesh, we thoroughly enjoyed today’s ride. The first 40km took us through fantastic scenery to Fouriesburg – where we broke for tea. All mountains and valleys, cliffs and rivers – the locals sensibly wrapped in blankets and Lesotho just over the hill to our left. Then over easier terrain to pretty Ficksburg – known for its cherry festival. People we meet, in towns or on the roadside, are all wide-eyed about our trip. One man, when told we were cycling to Cape Town, exclaimed: “Ek bel nie eers so vêr nie!”

Another frosty, frosty morning. Air so cold it stings. But again a beautiful clear day and a super shoulder on which to ride.

Leaving Clarens (having been dropped outside the dorp by our long-suffering support team) it is essentially uphill for about 10 slow kms – thank goodness we were feeling rested after our day of rest. To the east of us there are real mountains in mountainous Lesotho.

When we stopped for a sarmie break, Charl, trying to get at our sandwiches (which we suspected might be frozen from last night during which the temperature allegedly plummeted to -8!) dropped his “last” cigarette into the pannier! Ag, shame.

The first 40km brought us to the Fouriesburg turnoff (past  Surrender Hill where the boers were attacked by the Brits), with our destination, Ficksberg, only(?) another 40-odd kms away.

In Fouriesburg we found a little sandstone bar where we had tea in the garden. Locals stopped to chat to Charlie about “hoe vêr dit is”. Hy sê “dis vokken vêr na Messina toe toe hy in die army was, nê”.

Before leaving town we stopped to buy crisps at a local shop. I stayed outside astride my bike – kept company by kaalvoet klonkies on the pavement – while Charl went in. When Charl came out I had to point out that his cycle broek was falling down and his onderbroek  was showing – which caused quite a lot of amusement.

Later in the day we passed a woman and her kids on the side of a rural road. As I passed I said “You should be cheering me on”. “You go girl – whooo” was her immediate and amused response.

A young man from Lesotho cycled some distance beside me, chatting easily. I told him I had been in Lesotho about 20 years ago, briefly. He couldn’t believe how long ago that was!

Mom dropped dad off to cycle with us the last 10km into town.

A good day.