2000 Biking New Zealand

Day 25, 1 January 2001, Monday
Waipu – Paihia; 116.3km @ 14kph, Pickled Parrot, $44

And a happy (exhausting) New Year!

I went to bed last night on our return from town, but Charl partied and ate and smoked a cigar until late. I should have stayed up too as I was too cold to sleep – and only dropped off after he came to bed and warmed me.

We shopped for and ate breakfast at the obviously popular bakery in town. Then popped into the highland games, having persuaded with some difficulty the lady on duty at the entrance to reduce our entrance fee. Too early to see any of the really good stuff, but got, nonetheless, a taste of things to come. Dancing, sport, music (bagpipes), girls and men in kilts. And left later than we should have for the distance we had to do...

Good things about this long day – our average speed attests to it being a long tough day. There was considerably less traffic than we expected – most of it heading anyway south, heading home to start work on Wednesday. There was a shoulder most of the way. We had no close calls or nasty frights. Bad things: The northwest wind was inhibiting, the weather erratic, the distance daunting, and some of the climbs – especially those nearing day’s end – just too damn tough.

We took a break at a popular dairy on the outskirts of Whangarei enjoying there their toasted sarmies, egg burgers, and kumara chips. Then slogged uphill through town. On the other side of which a teenager in a car full of teenagers threw an egg at Charl. And missed! There’s definitely more aggression on the North Island! In contrast, Charl fell into conversation with a friendly kid – originally from South Africa, now living in Whangarei.

We saw a large sign on the road from Waipu declaring “Kauri Clock Factory, turn right at next lights, 30km”. And saw the factory on our right as we entered Whangarei! And a smaller private sign on one of the three short but incredibly steep hills we had to walk outside Paihia: “Drive slowly – loved ones use this road. The council should fix this road before worrying about signs!!!” We assume the signwriters had been asked to move their sign off the road at some past point.

We missed the famous Kawakawa loos – Hundertwasser-designed. And got really tired on the last leg into Paihia. Walking slowly and painfully up gradients way too steep to cycle, past cars that had not made the bends and were wedged and trashed in steep heavily-bushed valleys below the road. And arrived finally after nine and after dark at our charming backpackers. We were quibbling in the parking area – something silly about where to put our bikes while we went to find our host – when Peter the proprietor put in an appearance. And offered us leftover supper laid on by his other guests. Which we consumed with gratitude, as our beds soon after consumed us.