2000 Biking New Zealand

Day 19, 26 December 2000, Tuesday
Taupo – Rotorua; 109.5km @ 15kph, Funky Green Voyager, $39

We slept later than planned. Then futzed and dithered half the day away. 30km and five hours after saying our farewells to Harriet we were virtually back where we had started – having inadvertently cycled in a huge circle – and still had nearly 80km to go to reach our destination, Rotorua.

We cycled first through Taupo then up the hill and right onto Huka Falls road to visit the falls. The water is a stunning aquamarine, and although the falls are not big (actually a rapid through a narrow gorge), they carry a vast amount of water. Then over the main road again to visit the Craters of the Moon thermal area – a Department of Conservation (DOC) site just northwest of town. This site ‘appeared’ in the 1950s when the local power station lowered underground water levels “reducing the pressure of the heated water, and causing more vigorous boiling and steaming”. The site is less active than in recent years and not particularly impressive (Charl enjoyed it more than I – his first thermal site; but after Yellowstone, a poor country cousin to me). Despite which we savoured our wander along the wooden paths under a pleasant sky between bubbling mud pools and steaming craters and noxious odours and amazing pinks and greens.

We had planned to cycle the bulk of the distance to Rotorua on a quiet back road suggested by Lonely Planet instead of on the very busy SH5. To reach this road from the Craters of the Moon, we had to cycle past the Aratiatia Rapids on the Waikato River, and around and down and along (via a puncture on Charl’s bike). When we reached ‘our’ road, we found we were within sight of ‘our’ backpackers!

And so…left via Reporoa to Rotorua. The road was quiet alright; and pretty. And long stretches of it were a pleasure to cycle (Charl was struggling more than I today, although both of us are physically tired – he says I was speeding along “like a car”) – passing through forest and farm, all green and undemanding. There were a couple of cyclists out and about – exercising, not travelling. And one of the few cars we did encounter contained an aggressive type (one of the few in New Zealand) who poked a middle finger out the window at me – because of the flag?

By the time we reached Reporoa we were ready to call it a day, but still had 40km to go, with both SH5 ahead of us and a long daunting climb. We took a break in the town, finding to our delight that the little supermarket there was not only open, but sold the most delicious lamb pies. Which we consumed at a table on the pavement.

6-more km brought us to SH5 and a huge increase in traffic and commensurate decrease in pleasure. As we neared Rotorua we encountered whiffs and wisps of sulphur on the air. And little jets of steam on the hillsides around us. We had a very long and tiring climb to do to pay for a marvellous drop into Rotorua on its lake. Here I was overtaken by an elderly and heavily-laden – panniers AND backpack – man cycling in lederhozen. I overtook him taking a break later on the same hill. And he overtook me again on the never-ending up. But of course it did end and the many-km drop into town was a real pleasure.

Everything steams and stinks in Rotorua (named Rotten Rua by kids) – including the golf club on the outskirts of town where steam holes have been fenced and are dotted amongst greens and nonchalant golfers.

When we finally arrived at the Funky Green Voyager – after being mis-directed a couple of times – some people sitting in the garden commented on how light we are travelling. And then asked about our travels. I immediately said we had cheated the day before by hitching a ride for 140km. One woman said “that doesn’t make you a lesser person”. I said it did and she laughed and said they had cheated throughout by hiring a car. Charl contended that it depended on what your goal was! There’s obviously no going back, but we clearly both still feel we failed in some fundamental way.

The Funky Green Voyager is a really fine backpackers – laid back, attractive, all the amenities. And the first place where our host has appeared in the least security-conscious. And even then the security is to prevent opportunistic theft; not real or targeted crime. It feels odd to feel safe.

 After our shower we walked to a restaurant recommended by our host, but it was already closed for the night, the hour being more advanced than the waning daylight suggested. So we dined instead on very mediocre Mexican food on the pavement outside a small place on the main drag.

And so home to bed – after another tiring, but somehow satisfying day.