1999 Biking East Europe

Friday, September 24 – Velenice, Czech Rep – Penzion Konsul, 600Kc
Distance cycled: 55.2 – Maximum speed: 56 – Average speed: 14

Velenice on the west side of the Austrian border is a very odd little town, not quite Czech, definitely not Austrian, an anomaly in fact. We entered by bike late this afternoon, cycling in past several young women plying their ancient trade in modern minis. The town is essentially a flea market – with casino – for Austrians from across the border. An Asian flea market at that with Asians selling clothing (including very nice quality warm jackets), artificial flowers, ceramic elephants, garden gnomes, 3D religious scenes and soft and hard drinks in bulk. We are staying at the Penzion Konsul for 600Kc (no where else to stay and an inflated price no doubt because of the nearness of Austria and Austrian money) and have strolled the town and are dining at the local Pizzeria.

We cycled in from Ceske Budejovice along road 156. What a great bit of cycling despite the first half being pretty tiring. The road for starters was relatively free of traffic so although we had chosen to wear our helmets for the first time in ages we did not really feel a need for them and were not constrained all the time by fear of what was coming up from behind. The scenery, though not spectacular was undemandingly pretty – I particularly enjoyed cycling through the dappled forests. With little traffic and no wind the trees were almost silent and the falling leaves most gentle. Our day was overcast – the clouds cooling thank goodness the muggy heat we could sense behind them – but dry and windless, perfect cycling weather in fact.

In Strazkovice we bought supplies at the local cafe and sat on their bench to enjoy our brunch. Just beyond Trhove Sviny we stopped at a workers’ restaurant for coffee and beer and the loo. We entered Nove Hrady for soup and chips before tackling the last 17kms to Velenice. I was quite tired by the time we left Nove Hrady due in part to being unfit, in part to the previous days on the bike, in part to the hilly terrain, and in part to the fact that the bag I had brought empty to eastern Europe was now full of bought goods and heavy on the back of my already overloaded bike. And to some extent was dreading the last section. But what a great stretch of road and what a wonderful way to end our cycling stint in eastern Europe. The road narrowed considerably for the final stretch and was almost completely free of vehicular traffic. (We did encounter locals out on their bikes, Charl trying unsuccessfully to dice a young man on an old bike – a pastime he has indulged with pleasure and varying degrees of success on several other cycling days.) It ran past lakes and through forests and was almost entirely flat or down hill for the whole wonderful distance of it. Now this is what cycling is all about.